Piali's Madrid Diary #4

Friday 28th October 2011 — posted by lorna

Final week

Feeling very unwell and got some Lemsip type stuff from the local pharmacy. However a phone call from Casa de la India confirming our appointment changed my restful day into one of frantic organizational one to travel next day to Valliadolid, outside of Madrid. Failing to book tickets on the internet went off to Atocha main railway station with Anusha. The station is sprawling and busy. After going up and down and receiving contradictory advice from several quarters – finally did manage to buy our tickets – selecting the slow scenic route also because it was less expensive. The journey next morning was 2.5 hours from a different terminal – Chamartin. Divya and I just about made the train after being guided to two wrong platforms! The train and journey was very enjoyable. It was great to get out of the city and see the terrain outside of Madrid – from distant hills to barren stretches changing into groves of leafy green foliage, sleepy villages to industrial towns. Villadolid is a University town with, I understand, quite a conservative and wealthy community. Certainly the women were all so very glamorous!!

After a very very long walk we arrived at Casa de la India – an absolutely beautiful centre including a library, a large hall for exhibitions and small performances – quite cleverly planned so that the blinds and windows can open out to create a much larger space for artists and audiences. Strains of Tagore songs welcomed us to an exhibition of some of his rare paintings and sketches on exhibit. Recently the centre has received a treasure of rare books and publications of Tagore from a local donor. This is the biggest and possibly the most precious collection housed anywhere in the world. How lucky!!!!

The piece de resistance had to be the gorgeously carved doorway installed in the courtyard. This was a gift from Ahmedabad city. Also tucked in another corner a rather quaint rickshaw excited all of us to pose and Saranjit bravely tried to ride it. Sure these photos will appear elsewhere. After a tour of the building we met the director Dr.Guillermo Martin, a Sanskrit scholar and his very attractive wife Monica de la Fuente, an accomplished Bharatanatyam dancer. Casa de la India is an excellent model of Cultural and Political collaboration as it is supported by both the Indian and Spanish Governments and has an extensive programme of cultural, educational and economic partnerships. We were highly impressed and look forward to future dialogue on how our artists could be involved. Our own ‘Inspired by Tagore’ was well received and we may be looking at a parallel Spanish version and edition of the competition 

On Wednesday Divya and Anusha had a most moving experience working at Intermediae – and met people from ‘Debajo del Sombrero’, an association that works with people with intellectual disabilities using contemporary creative work. While this was not new to Anusha for Divya it was a really emotional experience, in particular with a young girl who got very attached to her. Both our artists were very appreciated and was invited to another centre the following day.

I was getting worse with my throat and flu and was forced to slow down. Wednesday evening Saranjit did his presentation to a full house at the Off Limits Gallery – another interesting architecture right in the middle of a residential area. The facilities were superb and Saranjit’s short films were very well received. We realized how many friends we had made in the last two weeks – generous and warm people who were genuinely interested in us and our work. I have run out of cards and sampad information – really had not imagined the number of connections that was coming out of this residency. This was Saranjit’s last evening in Madrid but I have a feeling he will be back sooner than we think.

Thursday morning went off to Centro Centro a newly refurbished Cultural Centre run by the Government. This century old Palacio de Cibeles, named after Madrid’s favourite goddess Cibele, was a stunning piece of architecture right in the centre of the city. Tanip from the cultural department met us with a friendly warm smile. Centro Centro is a cultural and information centre as well as a favourite meeting point for locals and a one stop shop for the arts promenade showcasing the city’s main cultural artery. It also describes itself as an intercultural meeting space and a new factory of ideas. We had a brief introduction to Pilar, the Director of culture. On our way down to the theatre we came across the most extraordinary interactive exhibiton – produced by some members from Medialab and had fun (no doubt these pictures will appear too on our facebook!)

The underground theatre space was fabulous with up to date acoustics and very inspiring for artists who can imagine programming and performing in such a space. Pilar gave Anusha and Divya a full tour of the building and the many exhibitions on show – while I rested in a spectacularly designed lobby with an English newspaper. We were meeting the dancers / organizers of Nataraya at Matadero in the afternoon. This is another spectacular and rather atmospheric centre sprawling over a large area and housing several organizations, theatres and galleries. My energy was fast dissipating as we returned home, with the temperature dropping a few degrees it was also getting cold. That evening I made Bengali style Khicchdi – with whatever was available in the kitchen – a bit of lentil, rice, onions and ginger and of course a few green chillies and no cooking oil! We had invited Fatima and Sikta from Nataraya as well as Sneha. It was a great feast ending with Haagen Dasz ice cream!

Today is a day of rest and catching up for me as we get ready to leave tomorrow. I hope to feel better before I fly. Still no voice and feeling rough but hey this has been a great residency – with potential for long lasting friendships with our Spanish comrades – Monica, Laura and Marcos at Medialab, David, Ana, Raquel, Barbara, Annalouise, Guillermo, Pilar and so many others…

adios amigos, hola Birmingham!

Piali is in Madrid with the Sampad ExchangeLab at Medialab Prado